Denim trend may be fading as shoppers opt for comfort — CTV News
Athleisure trend spells death of denim — NBC News
Despite the ominous headlines that shocked some in the retail world in 2014, denim is back again — if it ever really went away. Even teenage girls — who really had been avoiding denim — are starting to come back to jeans.
Local high school students Kaylin Schenk, 18, and Melissa Doberstein, 17, were amazed at the feel of the new hybrid jersey-denim they found in Opulence, a store in West Edmonton Mall that specializes in high-end designer clothing. “It’s so soft,” says Schenk.
The two, who admit they don’t wear jeans much, represent a generation of teen girls who grew up mostly in leggings, yoga pants and dresses. It’s the same generation now credited with a recent surge in denim sales.
New York trends adviser Ann D’Adamo, of Women’s Marketing Inc., reports on her blog: “Tracking denim sales … in the first quarter of 2016, new product arrivals increased 8.6 per cent over the prior year — a 21 per cent increase over 2014.” Also, “denim showed up as a ‘top trend’ for upper-income female teens for the first time since fall 2013.”
Indeed, the runways of New York were awash in indigo this spring, as denim designs were unveiled by the popular fashion houses of Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs.
Opulence owner Zoul Choucair confirms that Edmonton sales are in step with global trends. “We have seen a rise in denim sales for both men and women, as women tire of leggings and men discover the comfort and ease of jersey-denim blends.”
Industry watchers attribute the shift in denim sales to three factors:
• changes made by the garment industry in fabrication
• new sensitivity to environmental concerns
• introduction of new shapes and details.
Fabrication
Amandina Altomare, of 7 For All Mankind, a leading innovator in denim fabrications, says comfort is a key factor in appealing to youth.
“The younger generation seems to be focused primarily on comfort, and as the denim industry sets their efforts more and more on creating a comfortable denim alternative, the two are aligning.”
How has denim changed?
“We have introduced Lyocell, Rayon and Spandex into our constructions in small amounts to allow the fabric to stretch but maintain its shape remarkably well,” says Peggi Jewell, VP of Design and Merchandising at 7 For All Mankind. “This results in a lighter-ounce denim that feels thinner to the wearer.”
The denim blends and denim-look alternatives couldn’t be more comfortable, says Choucair, of Opulence, who points to the new skinny-fit jog jeans for men, by Diesel. “They have a sweatpants feel with a denim look,” and a remarkable ability to hold their shape. “You can dance and exercise in them, just like you can with a pair of joggers, but they look like jeans, so you can dress them up.”
Environment
Responding to increased demand for sustainable and ethical practices, some garment-makers are working to change their reputation for being one of the most polluting industries in the world. Vast amounts of clean water is required in making denim and there are reports that Chinese rivers are turning blue with indigo dye.
Choucair says some clothing now comes with “safe garment” tags that detail the use of safer dyes (some made from agricultural waste). These mimic indigo but require substantially less water and energy in processing. Even recycled plastic is being incorporated into some denim fabric.
New shape
Finally what’s driving denim sales are the new silhouettes and stylings.
For women, new vintage shapes with a higher waist have a “looser and more playful” silhouette,” says Jewell, of 7 for All Mankind. “The cropped kick flare and culotte brought attention to the delicate ankle and details like raw seams and letdown hems give a much-needed update to traditional denim looks … Exaggerated knee holes and coating are also becoming important again.”
For men, “look for the influence of athleisure in fabric and detailing,” says Choucair. With jog jeans showing a draw string at the top, five-pocket tapered hem and jersey hand feel, “it’s a sporty-inspired look that’s both fashionable and edgy.”
Denim dictionary
Here are a few terms to impress the denim heads in your midst:
Raw denim: not Sanforized, (skips the washing process that removes dye and starch)
Whiskers: crease lines that radiate from the crotch to the pockets
Combs or honeycombs: creases behind the knee
Roping: the pattern created on the loosely stitched hem of the cuff
Selvage: finished edge of denim produced on smaller looms in Japan (tip: roll up the cuff slightly to show off this much-coveted detail)
Stacks: folding at the ankle caused when the inseam is too long
